South Korea - Part I - Seoul

Travelling to South Korea was a very momentous trip for me to take. It is one that I knew I would take at some point in my life. For me, going to Korea is going back to where it all began. Where at just a few tender days old, I was left at an orphanage with the hopes of a better life than she could provide. Maybe she cried or maybe she just never looked back but there she left me, in the care of strangers to fend for myself. So with more baggage than the airlines allow, on a rainy November day in San Francisco, I travelled back to the country I was exported from 31 years earlier.

Because I look Korean, Koreans speak Korean to me, naturally. As we boarded the plan, the flight attendants said hello to me in Korean (Annyong haseyo - Ahn-n'yohng hah-say-yoh) and to Cory just a regular hello. I knew that the trip would be challenging in so many ways for me. Just one of them: the expectation of me being able to communicate and then the awkward realization when I responded in my very western accent "I'm sorry, I don't speak Korean".

Our first full day in Seoul, I awoke very early and headed to the gym for a run. As I stepped on the treadmill, I was a bit confused as it took me a second to figure out that it was in metric. I was thinking I was super fast! The night before, we arrived late in the evening so I did not realize that our hotel was across from an ancient temple. As I ran, I was looking upon a large, beautiful statue of Buddah. It was such a sight. If it wasn't for the temple sitting next to the hillside, I could of been at my gym in San Francisco.

We only had three days in Seoul so I wanted to make sure that I saw as much as I could. Little did I realize that Seoul is as large as it is. We were staying at the InterContinental which was in the southern part of Seoul. I had read that their subway trains are cheap and easy to navigate. One things the tour books don't tell you is that if you look Korean, they will expect you to speak Korean. We headed to the subway just a few blocks from our hotel. I had read that you can buy your ticket - more like a prepaid card that just deducts the fare - from a machine. Great, don't have to try to communicate. Yeah, not really the case. So Cory and I tried to buy a ticket from the guy behind the glass window. The funny thing was, he just kept looking at me and saying the same thing in Korean, over and over. And I just repeated, "I don't speak Korean" over and over. It was as if he was hoping if he just kept saying the same thing, eventually I would understand! It was truly awkward and made me feel bad about myself. There I was, standing without a clue, in a sea of people that I resembled, but yet, I still felt so foreign. Luckily, another thing I had read is that all young Koreans are taught English, but rarely have the opportunity to speak it with Westerners. So if they see the chance to practice, some just may. Thanks to a lovely young lady who took pity on us, we bought our tickets with a little help from our new friend.

We spent the afternoon in Insa-dong. It is an older part that also has been revitalized, in part, due to tourism. It has small art galleries as well as the typical tourist shops. Cory and I were walking down a street and heard the familiar sound of aluminum bats! We had travelled thousands of miles to happen upon batting cages. So we each took to a cage and attempted to hit. Some things are universal.

There were many little streets that just wind up and down. We found a quaint place for lunch at the end of a beautiful, shaded courtyard. We took our shoes off and stepped into a cosy little place. There were only Koreans in there. The menu was only in Korean with a few pictures, but it smelled delicious and we were both very hungry. We sat on the floor and smiled to the older women who took our order. We pointed to some meat and she smiled. Cory and I have had Korean food before so we managed pretty well. Didn't make fools of our selves. The only tricky thing that we did not know is that their chopsticks are flat, not round like we're used to. And they are metal. So we had to adjust to slick and flat sticks to eat with. I was worried that I would go hungry because I was having a hard time using them. We were pleasantly surprised at our bill. We had had a sizable lunch and the bill was less than $20 USD. And in Korea, you normally do not tip. What a treat.

My mother's dear friend's son Adam moved to South Korea about 15 years ago. He and his wife, Jeong-il and their son Noah live about an hour outside of Seoul. Adam was nice and gave Cory and I many suggestions on what to do while in Korea. Thanks to Adam, we were directed to some amazing places outside of Seoul. But while in Seoul the three of them came up for a few hours to see us. It was such a treat. We learned so much from them about culture and etiquette that we would have not learned otherwise. Adam speak fluent Korean. And their son, Noah can switch between English and Korean in the same conversation! We really appreciated their time.

While in Seoul we went to the National Museum of Korea. Walking up to this building you just could not believe your eyes. I tried to take a picture to capture the size of the building but I just could not. Koreans are an extremely proud people, and this building represents that. The building itself is beautiful. Simple and clean lines cut through the horizon as you walk up the gentle slope off of the street. Once inside, the beauty continues. The lobby is large, yet inviting and welcoming. Speaking no Korean, we all walked up to the information desk and happily saw "English" and a young woman sitting behind the familiar words. She happily handed us a map of the 10 Highlights in the museum. I think it would take days to make your way through the entire museum. The museum is free but there are a few exhibits that do charge. But all the 10 highlights are free. And they take you through the museum giving you a chance to see almost all of the museum. Here are some pictures from the museum:

Ten Story Pagoda
This is made of marble, which made engraving easy. Buddhist teachings are inscribed on the pagoda in an attempt to spread them to the world.




























Buddah
Iron
Unified Silla Period
8th Century













Buddah
Stone
Unified Silla Period
9th Century









Here's something funny that I was not able to capture on film. At the museum there were school children there touring. While we were looking at some pieces they saw Cory standing there and they became excited. They surrounded him and all began to say "Hi" and "Hello". Then they politely asked him, "Where are you from?" and awaited for him to answer and then they said, "How old are you?". They were happy to get the chance to speak English. Some children were too embarrassed to speak to him but you could just see their eagerness to do so. This happened several more times throughout the trip. Cory felt like a superstar!




We visited the Hanok Village in Namsan. A Hanok is a traditional Korean house. They are beautiful and unlike any home in the US. It was very interesting to see how they once lived. In Seoul there are not many homes like this in use today. There are now about 10 million people in Seoul, and the city has been built up like any other urban city.

Lastly something that I did not think I would do while in Seoul (or actually ever in my life) is Karaoke. After a dinner with some of my brother's friend, one of them who is Korean and her family lives in Seoul, we went to a Karaoke bar. It was just like in the Bill Murray move "Lost in Translation." It was a small room with TVs and two books, one English and the other Korean, with thousands of songs to choose from. Cory happily sang and reluctantly I sang one. It was fun; however, I always imagined that if I was to do Karaoke, I would be very drunk. Unfortunately, I was stone cold sober! And I still did it! Thank heavens there are no pictures but just know that I did do it!

Lewis and the box

Our cat Lewis loves boxes. When a package comes he always wants to play in box. Here he is playing in a box that was just too high for him.

Tamale Pie - Recipe

This is one of my favorite recipes to make. It is very tasty and very easy to make and freezes well. There is very little prep work as the only thing that really needs to be chopped is the onion and garlic. The rest is either canned or frozen. I use all canned. This recipe can also be adjusted to fit your personal taste. More of something - less of something, ground chicken or ground beef; what ever you want. Cory likes things spicy so I add a diced jalapeno to spice things up. For the cornbread topping I use a box mix, it is easier.

I make the entire dish in a cast iron pan. But if you don't have one, any oven-proof pan will work fine. If you don't have an oven-proof pan then after cooking on the stove top, transfer to a casserole dish. You can also make this dish ahead of time, which is what I do now a days. Because it is just the two of us, I split in half and transfer into two casserole dishes. I freeze one and put the other in the refrigerator. Just before I bake it, I make the cornbread topping and put on top. To make the frozen one, just defrost over night in the refrigerator and bake as usual. Still very tasty!

Tamale Filling

1 tablespoon Vegetable oil

1 medium onion, diced

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 diced jalapeno (seeded if you don't want it too spicy)

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

Salt

1 pound ground beef or chicken. (I use ground chicken)
1 (15.5 ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed

1 (14.5 ounce) diced tomatoes, drained

1 (8 3/4 ounce) whole kernel corn, drained

1 (7 ounce) diced green chilies (they are not hot and you can use a smaller can if you wish)

2 cups grated cheddar cheese (I use less and sometime none to save on calories; we don't miss it)

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro (I usually use more because it adds so much nice flavor)

Cornbread Topping

I use Jiffy cornbread mix. It is very easy and only around $.75 and can easily be found at the grocery store.

- Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

- For the filling: I use a cast iron skillet - heat vegetable oil. Add the onion, chili powder, cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and cook until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and jalapeno and cook for about 30 seconds. Be sure not to let the garlic burn as it becomes bitter if burned!

- Add the meat into the mixture breaking up with the back of a wooden spoon. Cook until no longer pink. Then proceed to add in all the vegetables. Stirring all the ingredients. Mix in the cheese and the cilantro. Salt and pepper to taste.

- Make the cornbread according to the directions on the box. You may need to adjust the oven temperature. Dollop the the cornbread on top of the tamale and bake.

- Serve with sour cream and cilantro. Enjoy!

Bogi - My Sweet Prince

My beloved cat Bogi passed away September 17th. Bogi was about 20 years old. He was my best friend. I picked him out when he was just about 10 weeks old. He was tiny. And so timid. I remember that when we first brought him home my mom was worried that he would get stuck underneath all the crap under my bed and then we would never find him! So she made him sleep out in the hallway the first night! We shut all the bedroom doors and trapped him in the hall. I remember hearing him cry because he was so lonely. So I got my blue sleeping bag and unrolled it in the hall with him. I got my side lamp and plugged that in so we could see. We played in the hallway and then when I got into the sleeping bag Bogi crawled inside with me! I remember him at the bottom of the bag and I was so worried that I would kick him or that he would suffocate at the bottom. Turns out that night was the start of a long and wonderful relationship.

I could write so much about my faithful companion. He was always there for me. He would sleep on my chest or at the foot of the bed. When Cory would kiss me good night he would also have to give Bogi a kiss who was usually perched on my chest. But no matter what I write, it will never be able to convey all the love that I had for him. I will never be able to find the words to express just how much he meant to me.

The end came fast. He had gotten sick a few months ago but all the blood work indicated that with medication he could live a few more years. So when Bogi woke up at 3AM Saturday morning, something seemed off and deep down inside I just knew that this wasn't going to be ok. The days that followed were not pleasant for any of us. The details are not necessary but I tired to make him as comfortable as possible. He spent his last days on my chest. I would hold him and sing to him. Something I had done his entire life. Early Sunday morning, I took him outside on our balcony and we felt the cool wind and fresh air.

Bogi loved to sit in front of the fire and toast himself. On Tuesday night we decided to have a fire all night long. He laid in front of the fire. Cory stayed up with him (playing xBox) until about 5am while I got a chance to sleep - naturally next to him. Then I stayed up with him and we watched the sun come up. For the rest of the morning he slept on my chest while I told him how much I loved him. Later that afternoon we took him to the vet. He was wrapped in his favorite blanket, a quilt I had made, and Cory and I said good bye. I held him and our wonderful vet, Dr. Sheppard told me that when I was ready she would administer the medication that would end his life. I not sure I was ready but I just couldn't bear the agony any longer. Cory and I kissed him and in my arms he died. It was very peaceful for him. Not so much for me. But he passed shortly after 4:30pm. I held him for a while and I said goodbye for the last time as I handed my baby over to the tech. I am 31 years old and I had had Bogi since I was 11. Such a long time.

We had Bogi cremated. He is now rest on my dresser next to my side of the bed. I see him before I go to sleep and then when I awake. And when I pass, his ashes will be buried with me. We will always be together.

Cory used to make fun of me for taking so many pictures of Bogi or Lewis. I am happy that I did because I have hundreds of pictures to look at when I miss him. I even took a few nice pictures of us out on the balcony the day before he passed. I have them framed with his paw prints. And I have pictures of him all around the house. I miss Bogi every single day. And I am not sure I will ever stop missing him. He was the love of my life.

I took this picture the day before he died. At the time all Bogi wanted to do was lay still but I had to take some last photos. I knew that I had to do this. I knew that these would be the very last pictures that I would ever take of my baby.





Here is a video of Bogi playing with a box. He loved it when I put catnip in the box which would make the box smell like nip. He'd play with the box until it was shredded in pieces.

Going Home

Last weekend we went to Stockton for a wedding. One of Cory's friends from way back got hitched! So for Cory, it was like a high school reunion. The wedding was nice. They were married at University of the Pacific chapel. Apparently they do lots of weddings. While we were there we say two other wedding parties!! It was nice but hot and somewhat stuffy in the chapel. It was about 90 degrees in Stockton on Saturday! The reception was at Brookside Country Club where conveniently Cory's parents live on the 2nd hole. So we took his father's golf cart to the reception! We were seated with some friends that we meet through the happy couple as well as some girls from Stockton who Cory had crushes on both in high school. He was very good friends with each but was never able to pursue the friendship beyond just that! It wasn't too awkward for Cory having his wife sit next to girls he liked many years ago. He managed the dinner like a champ.

When the wedding was over we stumbled to where the golf cart was parked. By now, it was very dark and we both were a bit intoxicated. Good thing we weren't driving. Well at least not driving a car! The drive home was like Mr. Toad's Wild ride! Thank goodness the cart has headlights! Which was good because there were no lights on the golf course. Good thing it was a short ride home. Here is us in the cart on the way home.

On Sunday, Cory's mom Karen asked him to go through some of the stuff she had been saving from his childhood. She actually had stuff he made in preschool! So there we were sitting in their garage going down memory lane. And wow, it is dusty! We found a piece of paper from the hospital that gave permission for treatment that they had given Karen to sign. She remembers the hospital making her sign it just as they were wheeling her into delivery!

The funniest things we found were old pictures!

My favorite is the one of Cory about 2 years old sitting with what looks to be a party loot bag. His face looks like he just gorged himself on the entire bag of candy! He looks like he is about to fall over! And I love his tee shirt with Big Bird and it has his name on it. That way everyone knows who he is!

Another really funny picture is the one with three boys and one girl. The boys are counter clockwise, David, Ryan, Cory and Marisa. According to the back of the picture, the three boys "were so impressed with Marisa going potty on the Big toilet." Cory is still very good friends with David. And David has a son, named David, who looks just like his father! We found a bunch of fun pictures.

This is proof that Cory has always been a clown.

Cory's 30th!!

Yesterday was Cory's 30th birthday! His mother drove up from Stockton to take him to Chez Pannise in Berkeley. Where he had a delicious and very unhealthy lunch. It was something fried! He loved it!

Then he came home to a party of two! We had party hats and all! To start we had salmon tartar and champagne to toast his 30th year of life. We watched a little Pearl Jam and played a little Scrabble. Where he proceeded to kick my butt! Then I made him lamb chops served with mashed potatoes with roasted shallots and spinach and pine nuts. It was scrumptious. But because I don't eat lamb I had chicken instead of lamb! And you know how I love chicken!

When we first started dating I found out that carrot cake was his favorite. So I made him a carrot cake to woo him! So for his birthday cake he wanted carrot cake. It's kind of "our cake". The funny thing is that I hate carrot cake!! I love the frosting and that's about it! So I made him carrot cupcakes with lots of frosting on top. He loved them.

Then, because we are such an exciting couple we watched Semi Pro. But because it was so late, 10.30pm, I ended up falling asleep about 10 minuets into the movie!

I think Cory had a nice birthday.